Rabbits are becoming increasingly popular pets as urban backyard sizes shrink and more people live in flats. They are fairly quiet, quite socially interactive with their human caretakers, small and relatively inexpensive to feed making them suitable for small living areas.
Housing
Rabbits can be housed in cages but not be confined for 24 hours a day.
They need to be let out for periods of time on a daily basis, preferably supervised, so as they can get adequate exercise. Cage size should be at least four times the size of the rabbit – more if it is confined for long intervals. The cage should be well ventilated, constructed of materials resistant to chewing and be easy to clean.
Cage floors should be either slatted plastic or solid. Wire floors are too harsh on rabbit feet which have no pads. However, if wire is the only flooring available then a resting board or rug should be provided otherwise foot problems can result.
Indoor and Outdoor Hazards
Rabbits love to chew just about anything, therefore rabbit-proofing any areas where the rabbit will have free access is essential. Potential hazards include chewing electric cords (shock), chewing poisonous plants (toxicity), and chewing synthetic materials like carpet (bowel blockage). Electric cords need to be encased in heavy-duty plastic and outlets covered by furniture to prevent access.
Bored rabbits tend to get destructive of their surroundings and will target sofas, carpets, cushions – almost anything. A supply of boxes, baskets, sticks, magazines, grass mats, toys and the like will keep your rabbit entertained and behaved.
Predators, especially cats and dogs, are the biggest outdoor hazard for rabbits – even if the rabbit is enclosed in its cage. Supervision and indoor confinement at night reduces this problem.
Diet
A good rabbit diet consists of good quality pellets, fresh hay, water and fresh vegetables, especially leafy greens. Treats like fruit can be given but should be limited (no more than 28 grams per 2.73kg bodyweight of rabbit per day) – high fibre fruits such as pears, apples, peaches and pineapple can be given in small quantities. Avoid bananas and grapes as they can become addictive.
Pellets should have a minimum of 18% fibre. Pellets (there are various brands) can be purchased at outlets such as pet shops. Do not buy more than 6 weeks supply at a time otherwise they spoil. As the rabbit gets older, the amount of pellets offered should be decreased whilst the quantity of vegetables should increase.
Hay is essential and should be available 24 hours a day. Hay provides roughage which decreases the risk of hairballs and other blockages in the rabbit.
Vegetables should be diverse and can range from dark, leafy types to root vegetables. Beans and rhubarb are best avoided. Obesity is a common problem in rabbits usually resulting from too much food and too little exercise. Over-eating can become a habit in bored rabbits. Roughage and green foods are essential in a rabbit’s diet to ensure adequate teeth wear and bowel function. Fresh clean water should be available at all times.
Training
Rabbits can be litter-trained at any age, even older rabbits. Litter training is even easier in desexed rabbits because the hormones responsible for territorial marking are absent. Most rabbits will choose to eliminate in one or a few spots (usually corners), so at least one litter-box should be provided in its cage and a few in its surrounds. By placing the litter box in areas the rabbit naturally uses, there will be an increased chance of success. If the rabbit eliminates anywhere else in the cage except in its litter box then the litter box must be moved to this other spot. Treats (such as veggies) can be used as rewards in training.
Vaccinations
Rabbits are susceptible to a number of potentially fatal diseases. One of these, rabbit cailcivirus disease or haemorrhagic viral disease, can be prevented by vaccination. Calcivirus in rabbits causes symptoms of inappetance and depression and rapidly leads to death from heart and lung failure. They die quietly, with few signs of distress, within 30 hours of becoming infected. Nearly 100% of infected rabbits will die, therefore vaccination is the main preventative for the disease. The first vaccination is given at 10 weeks of age or older, followed by yearly boosters.
To reduce potential exposure to calcivirus and other viral diseases of rabbits such as myxomatosis, it is recommended to avoid direct and indirect contact with wild rabbits, house rabbits in insect-proof cages, quarantine any new rabbits for a week before introducing them to the existing rabbit population and maintain a hygienic environment.
